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From the cellar #8

Excuse the shoddy photography, but I’m at my desk, at night, and feeling inspired by this brilliant wine. So the iphone has been employed; sending a boy to do a mans job in this instance, but even a blurry pic tells part of the story.

Firstly, for those not familiar with Schloss Lieser, a quick history lesson. Thomas Haag ( winemaker) is the son of Wilhelm Haag, of Fritz Haag fame. A vinous blue blood, German style. Lesson over.

But who you are descended from makes little difference when making a wine like this, other than the fact that you’ve likely picked some quality brains and tasted, from the family cellar, some of the greatest German wines in order to give you a benchmark to work from. You need great vineyards, a great vintage, and most importantly, winemaking skill. They’re all clearly in evidence here.

Admittedly, I don’t have a large point of reference for Auslese wines, so my rating isn’t relative to anything other than the best that I have drunk, of which this certainly qualifies. Great wines are about balance and seamlessness, the sense ( or sensuality) of the wine in the mouth and its shape and flow as you drink it. This gorgeously exotic, intoxicating wine covers all those bases. Sweet, but not cloying, it washes over you, a wave of acidity cleansing the finish of any suggestion of imperfection. 97 points, Drink forever